Scarcely ever can an happenstance on a far-off, small island have caused the world’s news media to respond in such concert. However, the flooding that soaked Madeira on the February 20th, 2010 did just that. Soon, television screens over the complete globe were displaying horrific scenes of devastation and floods from this tiny mid-Atlantic island paradise. The catastrophic images they showed focused mostly on Funchal, Madeira’s capital city. Mudslides accompanied the torrents of water that gushed down the mountainside and swamped most of the city and only added to the horror.
Where the vengeance of nature strikes with such swift intensity, death cannot be far removed. And, so it was with the disastrous events that overtook Madeira. Whilst primary estimates of fatalities were pessimistically placed in the hundreds, once the mud had been cleared away and the accumulation of rocks and boulders dug out, the eventual death toll was below one hundred. Thankfully, holidaymakers were by and large spared any serious casualties. The hotel district of Funchal escaped relatively untouched. However, one confirmed British death was documented as a car carrying a 50 year old women from Garton-on-the-Wolds, East Yorkshire, was swept away beneath the flood waters. In the immediate aftermath of the disaster, Madeira was faced with the clearing up task and a publicity campaign to restore its former glory in the European holiday marketplace.
In its past, Funchal has oftentimes suffered under external hardships – mostly from marauding pirates and the pestilence of disease. However, the commercial center of Madeira has always managed to rise above affliction. This is true of its most recent calamity. Funchal has collected its strength and expeditiously made good the loss inflicted in February 2010. Indeed, for anyone fresh to the island, Funchal will very likely resemble a city untouched by disaster. For returning holidaymakers, changes will be noticeable, but many of these have actually modernized the logistics of the city. Funchal is once more proclaiming itself “open for business”.
The seafront promenade in Funchal was especially devastated by the happenings of February 2010. Not only did the despoiling forcefulness of the water cause catastrophe, but the barrage of mud and rocks that were swept along by the gushing water caused considerable damage. Today, this much loved promenade has been repaired and renovated. Indeed, throughout its history, this water front neighborhood has undergone a sequence of improvements and additions. The reconstruction work subsequent to the flooding has been just another installment in its on-going progression. Once again, tourists can take a gentle stroll and take joy in the cooling breeze of the Atlantic as they soak up the sun.
Unfortunately, the municipality of Funchal needed to amass the tonnes of boulders and debris that had been swept down into the town centre by the cascading water. The shallow waters off the waterfront promenade was the choice that made the most commercial sense. Hence, today, the coastline has been extended out into the Ocean and Funchal has obtained an consequential new plot of land area.
So, if you’re feeling lazy and just want to let an hour or two glide effortlessly by, you could revel in a gentle ramble along the waterfront promenade.
Beginning at the westernmost end of the promenade is the harbour where the opulent cruise liners offload their cargo of passengers. There has been some major redevelopment work undertaken here, in particular the helicopter landing pad has been re-sited, but the port is as busy as ever.
Passing along, in a short time you come to the adjoining marina. Here, an assortment of resident and visiting yachts are anchored. The popularity of Funchal to free-spirited sailors is testified by the mass of murals that are painted on the quayside. Here, tokens of visitors past garnish the concrete wall.
If you desire a break from your excursions, there are scores ofan abundance of places to stop by at and enjoy a cool alcoholic beverage, snack or even a full, three-course meal. Fish dishes are always prominent on the menu.
Strolling on, you will pass the Vagrant; a tall-masted boat once possessed by the Beatles. If you sup here, a medley of Beatles’ songs will captivate you as you eat. Children of the Sixties will without doubt love the pleasant remembrances that it induces. This used to be a seafront restaurant, but due to the deposited remains of the flood, it now stands some 20 metres from the sea’s edge. However, that does not subtract from from its historical association. So, whilst dining here, you can still think that you are a honoured guest of the Fab Four.
Continuing eastward, you pass the shopping center, a little inset from the promenade, where the greatest number of fatalities occurred in the February floods. This locale has been one of the slowest to be renovated, but renewal work is on-going. A little further on is Funchal Old Town, known as the Zona Velha by the locals. You will find the Old Town antiquated and tight. A supreme venue to enjoy a quality meal on a hot summer’s evening.
The Fortaleza de Sao Tiago is situated beyond the restaurants in the Zona Velha district. This is a yellow-painted fort that formerly guarded Funchal from assault by pirates. Having seen off mother nature’s attack from the mountainside rising behind it, today it still houses an exhibition of contemporary art and boasts an up-market restaurant.
To be sure, Funchal waterfront promenade has something to intrigue nearly everyone. So, if you are at a loss for the objective of your next vacation, book Madeira. You will be rewarding the local population for their efforts in confronting the natural catastrophe that beset them in February 2010.
Jimmy Jay James B.Sc (Hons) is a member of the staff of the ever popular Madeira travel guide. He resides in the United Kingdom and has had many articles published in the trade press. He visits Madeira frequently and has made numerous friends there.
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For further details of Funchal, read the tourist guide to Funchal Seafront Promenade.